Recognisable for their slanted, logo-stamped sides and sporty silhouettes, New Balance trainers boast universal appeal. “Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio” is one of the slogans used on a 2019 advert for a revamped version of the brand’s cult 990 style, first released in 1982, and it surmises its broad reach perfectly.
It’s true: New Balance footwear is as much a hit among fashion’s new guard as it is among older generations. Kaia Gerber, Lisa, Zoë Kravitz, Emily Ratajkowski and Hailey Bieber are but a few famous fans, while @Gramparents, an Instagram feed dedicated to stylish sex-, sept- and octogenarians, reveals NBs aplenty.
New Balance’s history traces back to 1906, when William J. Riley founded New Balance in an effort to improve arch supports. An unlikely influence inspired his early products: Riley observed the anatomy of chicken feet (hence, “new balance”) and reportedly kept a chicken foot on his desk. Then, after specialising in arch supports, in 1960 New Balance introduced the Trackster, a running trainer with a rippled sole that still inspires the brand’s innovations today. The company continued to push trainers into the 1970s and 1980s, releasing models that remain a part of the permanent collection.
Certain shapes have attracted certain crowds. For instance, remakes of the aforementioned 990 were all over socials several years ago – ditto the 530s, 550s and 574s – and in 2024, the 1906Rs have become increasingly popular.
Collaborations have further increased New Balance’s cachet: an ongoing partnership with Miu Miu has seen multiple takes on archival styles, including denim and corduroy 574s and suede 530Ls with cord laces, which debuted on the runway. Aimé Leon Dore’s Teddy Santis, designer Salehe Bembury, Joe Robinson of Joe Freshgoods and JJJJound’s Justin R. Saunders have also joined forces with NB on several occasions.
Coveted New Balance silhouettes – the collaborations, especially – have a tendency to sell out. Resale platforms like StockX and Goat, as well as Farfetch and eBay, stock selected past-season styles, and you’ll find new arrivals on New Balance’s dedicated site and retailers including Net-a-Porter.
Wondering which style to pick? See below for further information on some of the most popular New Balance trainers.
Launch dates: 1982, 1998
In recent years, modern versions of the 990 have been adopted as a go-to fashion trainer among supermodels and celebrities, but they started out life as a running trainer. First released in the ’80s, the 990 was the first New Balance running trainer to boast a 3M reflective film on the back tab and a moulded motion control device (to provide stability). Over a decade after its launch, New Balance unveiled a more refined sophomore model, the 990v2, which boasted several tweaks that developed the design further (in techy trainer vocab, it had an underlay web that connected the eyestay to the tip). This updated style has been used as a template for modern versions that have been released in the years since.
.jpg)
Launch dates: 2012, 2016, 2019 & 2022
At the time of writing, the beloved 990 is now in its sixth iteration – testament to the timelessness and popularity of this signature New Balance model. Each time it has been altered, new design details and innovations have been added, to improve both the appeal and technology of the trainer.
.jpg)
Launch date: 2001
Another running model in the New Balance family, the 991 was the first 99X release of the 21st century. Its successor, the 991v2, has become a popular style amongst NB fans, with a design that varies only slightly from the original: it’s more streamlined with a “sleeker overall profile”, plus the additions of suede panelling and comfort-driven, full-length FuelCell cushioning.
.jpg)
Launch date: 1988
New Balance has described its 574 as “the most New Balance shoe ever”, but also its “unlikeliest icon”. While other hero trainers featured in this article boast material credentials, the 574 (which is based on the 575 and 576 models) was made as a reliable shoe rather than an exemplar for the brand’s technology, with a wider last to ensure maximum comfort and durability. “This unassuming, unpretentious versatility is exactly what launched the 574 into the ranks of all-time greats,” says the brand.
.jpg)
Launch date: 2021
Miuccia Prada’s ongoing collaboration with New Balance has, unsurprisingly, been a resounding hit. The designer reinterpreted the 574 silhouette for spring/summer 2022, “emphasising construction through deconstruction” via frayed edges and new materials, and has since released styles made from denim, distressed suede and leather – her latest release saw a reimagined version of the ’90s-era 530.
Launch date: 1989
The 550 is a quiet hero which, after its initial debut in 1989, was worn on basketball courts in the US, to then be filed away in the archives until a reintroduction on a limited-edition basis in late 2020. Then, in 2021, the 550 returned to the permanent collection and was also reinterpreted by Aimé Leon Dore’s Teddy Santis.
.jpg)
Launch date: 2009
One of the most technology-driven trainers in the NB line-up, the 1906 – first launched in 2009, followed by an updated 1906R released in 2022 – is defined by a sole that features Acteva Lite cushioning, shock-absorbing N-ergy, and segmented Abzord SBS pods at the heel. It is considered the “cousin” of fellow high-performance models, the 2002R and 860v2.
.jpg)
Launch date: 2022
Taking cues from shoes in the 99X series – the 990 and 997 – the 9060 is a “new expression” for New Balance, which echoes the trademark qualities of its predecessors with futuristic, Y2K-inspired details.
.jpg)
Launch date: 2012
According to New Balance, the 610 is the trainer for more testing moments: “Whether you’re competing against the terrain, or a particularly trying day, the New Balance 610v1 is your best weapon.” With textured, bumpy soles and a range of earthy colourways, it’s been adopted as the trainer of choice among “Gorpcore” enthusiasts.
.jpg)
Launch date: 2010
As its name suggests, the 2002 is based on Noughties running designs. It originally dropped in 2010, and a decade on New Balance released the 2002R, which has since become a popular trainer for both sport and everyday-wear.
.jpg)
Launch date: 2020
The immediately-recognisable 327 stands out from the crowd. Rooted in NB’s retro 1970s designs, the 327 features a wedged silhouette, asymmetric logos and a trail-inspired lug outsole. According to the brand: “The 327 us nothing less than a complete reimagining of our running heritage.”
.jpg)
