As any ’90s kid worth their patchwork Tammy jeans will tell you, you were no one until you had a Gap logo jumper. With its graphic, varsity-inspired lettering and everyman (and woman) appeal, it offered a “part of the gang” allure to its wearers, many of whom were tweens and teens desperate to become students of this all-American institution. Still, Gap has not had the easiest ride in the intervening years – three decades, in fact, where the very foundations of the industry shifted irrevocably and brands were faced with a new frontier of online shopping and social-led marketing. What’s a multinational fashion corporation to do?
Take a leaf out of the designer playbook, apparently. In 2023, the brand shook up its creative leadership team and hired red-carpet stalwart, Zac Posen, as creative director. Then followed a slew of high-profile A-list appearances, with everyone from Anne Hathaway to Timothée Chalamet not only repping the democratic brand, but repping the democratic brand on the red carpet, no less. A new era had begun. Meanwhile, interest in second-hand Gap pieces from the ’90s and Noughties has surged amongst Y2K-obsessed Gen Z-ers, further boosting the cultural buzz around the nostalgic brand.
Launching today, GapStudio is the next stage of the brand’s evolution. Designed by Posen, and with a star-studded campaign shot and directed by Mario Sorrenti and styled by Alastair McKimm, it’s a statement of intent for where (and for whom) Gap wants to take its business. Collection 01, which drops today, is a real celebration of Posen’s love of draping and construction, and features everything from silk slip dresses and tailored shirting and trousers, to corsets and bubble-hem miniskirts. Prices range from £50 for a tank top to £225 for a trench coat.
“Inside Gap’s New York HQ, we’ve built a creative studio where I’ve designed looks for the red carpet, and where we’ll continue to collaborate with visionary talent in the future,” says Posen, whose official title is Gap Inc executive vice president and creative director. “GapStudio Collection 01 reflects that vision – blending tailoring with innovative denim treatments that sculpt and refine the fabric in new ways. This is just the beginning.”
I had a chance to try on some of the collection’s hero pieces, and I can confirm that the quality – which can be hard to get a sense of online – is undeniable. The silky slip dresses, which come in red and black, are much more flattering than many others I’ve tried on before, thanks to their weighty fabric, panelled construction and subtle flaring of the skirt that skims (rather than clings to) the hips. Then there’s the knit dresses, which have a weighty, premium feel (and are reminiscent of new-season Alaïa). They come in a tank iteration (see the red style below) and a long-sleeved style, and all feature the same hip-skimming waistband and pleated skirt.
Speaking of skirts, one of my favourite pieces has to be the dark-wash denim mini, which features the same clever construction as the dresses – a sort of inside-out pleating that creates a sculptural, wavy hemline. I’ll be styling it with a tank top, bomber jacket and ballet pumps this spring. I also have to give a shoutout to the asymmetric-hem jersey maxis, which look suitably chic styled with the collection’s lace-up corsets – one to take note of for summer parties. The only thing missing? More innovation in the tailored pieces, such as the trousers and shirts. They tick the “reliable wardrobe staple” box, but perhaps don’t feel radically different from the brand’s mainline collections.
That being said, Posen has taken significant steps to carrying Gap into a new era, and we have no doubt that this collection will assist him with his mission. We can’t wait to see what he comes up with for collection 02. Watch this space.
