In October, H&M marked a milestone 20 years of its designer collaborations, which have seen industry stalwarts – Maison Margiela, Comme des Garçons and Versace among them – lend their signatures to the high-street brand, resulting in sellout collections that have become collectables in their own right. These partnerships have attracted fashion fiends far and wide, with loyal H&M customers not only setting their alarms for the buzzy moments, but also preempting the arrival of the seasonal Studio collections, which are designed by the internal team and have been a resounding hit since the debut launch just over a decade ago. “I think it’s more relevant because we’re getting better at doing it, I think we’ve chiselled out the Studio woman,” head of design Ann-Sofie Johansson previously told Vogue from H&M’s Stockholm HQ. “It’s more personal than the rest of H&M.”
The heroes vary only slightly with each drop – tailoring has been at the core from the outset – and each time, the team chooses a different reference point to ground the collections. For spring, it was the “work hard, play hard” spirit of the 1980s and the contrast of cityscapes and pool parties, realised as silhouettes that toe the line between tailoring and leisurewear. In short: business meets pleasure.
Leaning into the “business” tropes, there’s a single-breasted blazer – which, true to the era, is bolstered with power shoulders – a more relaxed, lapel-less style (both come with matching trousers), a high-waisted pencil skirt, pointed pumps and a bag inspired by a briefcase. As for “pleasure”? Key pieces include: square-toed flats with collapsible heels, scoop-neck tanks, a crunchy funnel-neck jacket, a draped red dress and a halter-neck swimsuit in the same fiery shade. It would take a daring type to wear the latter – and some of the more out-there pieces in the collection, like the prints and workout video-esque lycra leggings – but as is often the case with the Studio releases, there are designs that are classic and others that are more directional.
Shop the collection available in selected stores and via hm.com now, or find inspiration from Vogue's edit below.
