A set of celebrities in the mid-2000s had their top lips split open in surgical procedures that flipped the flesh back out at the Cupid’s bow. That’s how it was told to me by a well-informed friend. It sounded like a slasher film: a knife piercing the skin and filling it with a Play-Doh-esque substance, a body-horror resulting in a doll-like pout that I now know is a lip lift. Such a brutal thing to do for such a subtle difference, I thought. I won’t ever do that. I was happy with my lips. Full Cupid’s bow, just fleshy enough, no work needed.
Nor was I influenced by the influx of lip filler procedures in the next decade. If I briefly was, I’d recall the faces of the beautiful icons I’d encountered in the flesh. Faces filled only with magnetic smiles like that of Jane Birkin, then nearly 60. Or a mid-life Christy Turlington Burns with myriad natural lines that erased none of her beauty. Or Charlotte Rampling, still mesmerising in her 70s.
Even in the giant lip boom of today – with Hailey Bieber’s all-conquering Rhode-show in town – I had been standing strong. Until recently, that is. I had weathered pouty power products blowing up on TikTok, and a cacophony of lip oils and glows from Saie, Gisou and Dior. But one day my geriatric millennial mouth dropped. Now, in my early 40s, I realised that if I really looked I could see a shift. My lip line had lost definition and volume.
So I booked in for needlework at the Nejati Clinic in London’s Belgravia. Plump me up in time for summer, I say! But – and this is the key difference – it’s acupuncture needles only. “Unlike cosmetic fillers or surgical options, acupuncture provides a natural way to enhance your lips without the risk of significant side effects,” explains holistic health expert and acupuncturist Sarah Bradden, founder of The Bradden Method. As we know, the ancient Chinese practice involves inserting very thin needles into specific points on the body. “Using specialised techniques, you can achieve fuller, softer and more hydrated lips by boosting blood circulation and moisture levels.”
This matters because the structure, colour, composition and physiology of the lips change as we age. Our inner youth factories have chilled out on the collagen production. They stop making as much elastin too, the second of these wondrous proteins that have been keeping our lips plumped.The fat pads and muscles that support the lips also deplete with time, making the lips thinner and more lined. (Dehydration and sun exposure don’t help here either.)
Enter the acupuncture needle. “Cosmetic acupuncture stimulates the production of collagen by inserting specialised needles into specific points on the face, neck and head to promote circulation and increase the volume of elastin,” Bradden says. “Like Botox and fillers, it aims to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but also deals with the underlying causes of these facial concerns.” Studies have shown that as we get older, the philtrum – the groove in the upper lip that runs to the nose – lengthens and the lip width widens, so the Cupid’s bow falls flat and the outline becomes less defined as fine perioral lines and grooves meander in.
Bradden addresses this directly, strategically placing needles in the lip area to enhance circulation. “Increased blood flow will give your lips a fuller and more vibrant look and provide natural hydration. By promoting the production of natural moisture, your lips will appear plumper and feel softer too.” Although there’s no denying it hurts – quite a lot, momentarily, as the lips have more than a million nerve endings and no protective membrane – I’m assured it’s nothing like the pain of lip filler, where numbing cream is necessary. And, face like a pincushion, I really do begin to relax once the needles are in my ears, cheeks and jawline. I’m also pierced in my ankles, “for grounding”, and the crown of my head.“This is the governing vessel,” explains Bradden, who conducts a simultaneous reiki session.“I think of it as the reset button to centre the whole body.”
An LED panel is placed over my abdomen to improve cellular function, while hydrogen and activated oxygen is inserted through a catheter into my nostrils. Hydrogen acts as a great “clean up” of our cells with anti-inflammatory and healing properties, while “activated oxygen increases cell energy production and enhances cell repair”. The needles come out and Bradden massages the fascia around my mouth. “Releasing tightened fascia can alleviate tension, which may contribute to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.” This release can help soften the appearance of nasolabial folds and marionette lines, as well as engage and stimulate underlying muscles. She then uses a cupping tool on my lips to revitalise the skin.
When we’re done, my juicy skin has made a bigger comeback than its Y2K velour namesake. My lips are sitting higher and an undeniable difference is discernible for days. Yes, it would take regular treatments – every two weeks to start, then monthly top-ups – to keep the collagen flowing and muscles lifting, but acupuncture has reinforced what I already try to tell myself. What’s going on inside affects our outsides and vice versa.“The acupuncture process is often calming and can help reduce stress,” confirms Bradden. “This relaxation can positively impact your appearance, helping you look healthier and more vibrant.” Regular treatments can lead to long- term benefits. “By consistently stimulating blood flow and collagen production, you can maintain a naturally youthful look over time.
For now, I still don’t want filler. I don’t want to put anything into my lips that might migrate or have to be dissolved. I don’t want to experience perception drift or have my teenage daughter’s face bear no resemblance to my own. And besides, I have her make-up.
A wave of modernised lip-boosting products can also accentuate blood flow. Ingredients such as cinnamon, peppermint oil, camphor and caffeine irritate the skin on purpose, which results in a temporary swelling. Just don’t overdo it. And look for the products packed with peptides to build collagen over time, and hyaluronic acid to lock the moisture in. Clever liner, too, adds definition while gloss creates the illusion of fuller lips. As does a fleck of highlighter on the Cupid’s bow. That’s true Y2K nostalgia, no split lip required.
