When I first heard whispers about polka dots making a comeback, I was transported back to 2020 – much of which I spent bingeing season four of The Crown and getting lost in internet rankings of “Princess Diana’s Most Iconic ’80s Looks”, as Emma Corrin’s on-screen wardrobe seared itself into my Covid-addled brain.
For a long time, the polka dot print has been the preserve of Holland Park mums on the school run or brunching on the King’s Road, but lately it has been shaking off its sloaney associations to emerge as something fresh, and altogether more fashion girl-friendly. (Avert your eyes, trypophobes!)
Two years on from Gwyneth Paltrow’s legendary ski trial wardrobe, consumers are increasingly rejecting quiet luxury in favour of something louder and more decadent. As one friend told me recently: “It’s time to reject the oppressive nature of chic and embrace the chaotic hedonism of glam.” We are, it seems, entering the age of “boom boom” – a term coined by Sean Monahan to describe the return of unapologetic ’80s excess, a mood dripping in opulence and with a nihilistic slant. The fur-laden, power-shouldered aesthetic sits somewhere between American Psycho (minus the murders) and Lady Gaga’s “Beautiful, Dirty, Rich” video. The polka dot fits neatly into this new landscape, having appeared on runways everywhere from Fendi and Moschino to Isabel Marant.
In London, Conner Ives showed sheer slip dresses appliquéd with large tonal spots, while Bora Aksu leaned into the romance of it all via dotty dresses in layered tulle. Over at Moschino things were more in your face – think Mickey Mouse-inspired polka dot blazers and deconstructed slips – while the sheer polka dot skirt from Instagram fave Susa Musa has influencers in a chokehold. On the celebrity front, Dua Lipa has swiftly embraced the trend: she was recently spotted in a strapless pink Valentino spring/summer 2025 number that would have fit right in on a Chelsea dancefloor circa 1981.
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If you still need a little guidance on how to wear polka dots without going full Sloane Ranger (although, there is always a time for that), the street-style set has proven there are plenty of ways to make the print feel modern. Whether toughened up with leather, mixed with bold colour, or introduced as a subtle accent via your accessories, there’s a way into this playful trend for everyone.
Toughen up with leather
Pairing polka dots with leather instantly removes any prim and proper associations. Try a sheer spotted blouse under a boxy biker jacket, or a floaty polka dot dress with your most worn-in leather boots.
More is more
To those who aren’t afraid to make a statement, we say: embrace the chaos! The combination of bold colours and oversized polka dots keeps things playful – the trick is to fully commit.
Keep it tonal
For a more understated approach, opt for tonal polka dots. Black and navy are perfect starting points for this stripped-back take on a potentially loud trend.
The accessories-first approach
If you’re just thinking about dipping a toe into the polka dot pool, accessories are the ultimate gateway. Add a pair of statement tights, a playful dotty bag or a flash of a spotty scarf to an outfit, depending on how dedicated you are to the ’80s agenda.
A monochrome moment
Statement shoulders and power blow dries aren’t for everyone, but most people can get on board with black and white. A white dress with black polka dots (or vice versa), is a classic way into the ’80s revival that needn’t feel overly retro.
