The Vintage Seller Tackling Second-Hand Fashion’s Size Issue Head On

Ahead of the Vogue Vintage Sale on 29 March, co-hosted by Jorja Smith and Iris Law and presented by eBay, Vogue is celebrating all things pre-loved. Not all vintage treasures are rare designer pieces loaded with fashion lore: from a perfectly worn leather jacket uncovered in a thrift store to a slogan tee sourced online, pre-loved items can (and should) be a key player in every modern wardrobe.

The world of vintage clothing has been plagued by all manner of misconceptions over the years. While fashion girls have been scouring King’s Road thrift stores since the 1960s – “I soon noticed that the coolest kids on the street had more or less ditched the mod aesthetic and were turned out in flowing attire recalling a more romantic age,” the model Penelope Tree has recalled of witnessing the original vintage boom in Swinging London – for the average shopper, it was all too easy to be put off by questions around wearability, cleanliness, accessibility and style.

Fast forward to 2025, and the general perception of second-hand clothing has come on in leaps and bounds – so much so that a new and understandably climate conscious generation is making it their first port of call. But in other areas, there is still a long way to go. Sizing, in particular, has long been a sticky issue within the second-hand market.

As someone who has been shopping second-hand since I was 15, and who makes a point of visiting vintage stores or charity shops whenever I’m in a new city or country, I’ve always been struck by how petite many of the pieces are – especially those from before the 1980s. Anecdotally, I know friends who try to shop vintage as a UK size 14 or above have found the process frustrating. Fit-and-flare 1950s dresses with waspish waistlines and doll-sized shoes are a common sight in second-hand markets and shops, and I confess that I have never fully understood whether this was an consequence of changing body shapes, or a sourcing issue. Also, as a UK size 10, I recognise that the scale of the problem has never really been apparent to me.

It was the vintage seller Katty Patterson – also known as @findsbyfoxes – who educated me on the world of size-inclusive second-hand fashion, after I stumbled across her account during the pandemic. After having kids, Patterson found that she felt alienated from the vintage clothing market – a space she had shopped and worked in for much of her adult life. Then, a chance encounter with a sheep-embroidered jumper inspired her to set up a new business that catered to a neglected community of second-hand fashion fans.

I spoke to Patterson about sourcing, shopping tips and running a small business within the ever-changing landscape of second-hand fashion.

What motivated you to set up a vintage business focused on size inclusive pieces?

I’ve been selling vintage for over 20 years, in one form another, and across those two decades, my size has fluctuated. It was at the upper end of the scale where I found it almost impossible to find vintage pieces that I loved and that fitted into my style. The frustration was enough to make me fall out of love with vintage for a few years – I just stopped looking to avoid inevitable disappointment.

One day, while being a vintage shop wingwoman to my friend, I stumbled across this incredible ’70s knit – a big, baggy mohair number with a jaunty, embroidered sheep on the front – and it fit me perfectly. It re-ignited something in me, and I re-learned how to source for myself and my size. Not long after, I figured: why not put those skills back to use in a new way and provide something for (at least a small subsection of) people who feel left out of the core vintage market?

What’s the biggest misconception around sizing and vintage?

Firstly, that larger sizes in the vintage realm simply don’t exist or exist only in limited forms. That’s really not the case. Are they more rare? Definitely – for which there’s a plethora of reasons – but they are out there; they just take a little more digging. You are not limited to kaftans and trapeze dresses.

Why do you think there tends to be a smaller variety of sizes in vintage and resale stores?

Sourcing and curating collections takes a lot of time for any seller. But to source pieces in a size range that sits outside of the usual provisions – particularly when you’re trying to ensure things align aesthetically with the rest of what you offer – is really labour intensive; it takes a lot of deep-diving and careful consideration. If you work with bales or job lots, for instance, these won’t tend to include many – if any – high end options above a modern UK size 14.

It would be easy to throw a swathe of wide-cut, crimplene shifts into a collection just to meet some size inclusivity quota, but if your focus is quality, that cannot be your approach. If your MO is bringing exciting and unusual pieces to rival any standard-sized collection that’s out there, you have to go about it differently. Sourcing for mid-plus, with a focus on luxe finishes, feels more like personal shopping; you’re hunting pieces down individually and, often, cleaning or repairing items that may be otherwise overlooked or discarded. While there are, of course, exceptions to the rule, that model is difficult to replicate on a larger scale, and this will be why you’ll tend to find smaller selections of higher sizes in the likes of a bricks and mortar space.

What are your top tips for those looking for great size-inclusive vintage pieces?

If you’re in a vintage or charity shop, hit the men’s section first. Here, even the smaller chest sizes will usually start at the mid to upper end of the women’s equivalent. This is always my first port of call for high quality blazers, oversized shirts and graphic tees. Online, meanwhile, make sure you’re filtering results by sizes a couple higher than your modern size to ensure you’re not trawling through hundreds of options that will arrive and just won’t fit. And always check the measurements before you purchase. If they’re not listed, just ask!

What archival brands do you think are best for size-inclusive vintage?

For retro maxi and midi-dresses in extended sizes, keep an eye out for Norman Linton or DL Barron. Search Windsmoor for classic, wool coats and Simon Ellis for statement ’80s blazers and two-piece sets.

How do you think the digitisation of the vintage space has affected the market, both for sellers and consumers?

I have always sold and sourced within the online space and, since moving to a singularly focused mid-plus market, rarely source in-person. The freedom to go beyond your town or city and search for treasure globally is a wonder, for both sellers and shoppers alike.

Do you have any mid-plus style icons, past or present, who inspire you?

Miranda Sanchez (@siranda_manchez) is an absolute sweetheart and the undeniable queen of layering, Paloma Elsesser (@palomija) is really cool and Margie Ashcroft Austad (@margieplus) is a riot of fun and colour.

What are the pieces on your wishlist for 2025?

Last month, I nabbed an original wool and leather, USA imported, baseball jacket, so that was an early check off the list – delighted for myself. Next on the list is a brown, pinstripe trouser suit – again, it’ll be the menswear section for that, and a trip to the tailor to have the trousers re-fitted at the waist and modernised on leg.

Shop Katty’s vintage edit